So, since you can't top the ponies, the rest of the day went in a blur. I took a shortcut and ended up passing by some random sculpture which clearly was of birds -- whether it was of cormorants, I don't know, but I saw them (or I think I did) on rocks later on. There was no plaque or information indicating why the sculpture was there, and I was kind of ready to reach Coverack, so I kept moving.

Once there, I stayed with the most lovely of hostesses: The owner of Fernleigh, Ann Rogers. The B&B was easy to find (though I did stop at another one to ask) and the place was spacious and the bed full-sized. The sink was a bit wee for my tastes, but I'm not complaining. Ann said she'd been in Coverack since about 1987, and the place a B&B for about 8 or 9 years. She and her late husband (she's now remarried) had worked in the Sudan for the UN, and she says she'd go back in a heartbeat. Me, I'd take the B&B. I don't know why -- maybe it was because for the first time in ages a shop would take a travellers check, maybe it was because Ann brought out tea for me and another visitor, with whom I had a lovely conversation. He'd arrived at the front door with a motorcycle helmet and wearing a bright yellow vest and tidy black boots that made me think he was a cop. Turns out he was, only not local: A traffic cop named Edward, out trying his new cycle before taking it out to France a few days later on.

I headed into town for a plain pizza to eat back at the B&B, did a bit of shopping, and felt thoroughly at home the whole time. Pictured: the view inside my room (no locks on the doors, which somehow made me feel more, not less, secure) and the view outside it, facing west.